a few of my notes from session 2 on the history and context of fashion.
- FASHION: ' a system of signs, symbols and iconography that non-verbally communicates meanings about individuals or groups.'
- charles frederick worth (1826-1895) considered to be first fashion designer. previously, people had just been tailors. people would show tailors what sort of thing they wanted to wear through drawing - art as communication.
- society was very structured, 'no room for manouvere across social classes'. people thought if you were born a peasant, royal, etc, then that was how God wanted you to live your life, that was your destiny. charles darwin's evolution theory revolutionised the way people saw religion. if everyone was equal, then why couldn't you shift class by hard work? making the change yourself instead of just accepting your 'fate'.
- industrial revolution: trends spread as more people moved into cities.
- 'orientalism': exotic fashion. increase in travelling caused discovery and imigration of new trends, materials, styles.
- 1910: maison redfern designed suits for women - gender in fashion.
- paul poiret (1879 - 1944): one of the first designers who made stylish clothes that people could put on themselves. before, high fashion was complex, and needed a second person like a servant (if you were rich enough to afford high fashion you were rich enough to have someone to help you put it on..)
- **ART DECO
-**1930s ROARING 20s and HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR
- WWII: europe under threat. paris was fashion capital of the world - all the haute couture fashion houses. nazis wanted to move fashion industry to berlin. many people working in fashion moved to new york. main fashion capitals now also include milan, new york, london. euro-american cross germination of ideas.
- 1950s: teenage clothes came more into their own. before, you would become a adult after childhood and wear clothes like your parents.
- 1960s: optimism. no war, moon landing, freedom, youth culture. hippies - subcultures, beliefs, politics, relaxed.
- ***1970s: teddy boys vs mods. fashion meant becoming part of a 'tribe'.
- (culture, class) thorstein veblen 'the theory of leisure class' (1899) - keeping up with fashion, so rich you can 'throw away' last month's fashion and afford this month's, demonstrating wealth eg: wearing clothes that are impossible to work in gives the impression of being so wealthy you don't need a job. 'conspicuous leisure' - wealthy enough to spend time 'swanning around in fancy clothes, not working, going to cinemas and art galleries'
- fashion, popularity: burberry example - used to be a signal of high fashion but now is copied, 'the norm': everyone has knock off burberry.
- beauty/ugliness dependent on cultural attitudes: what makes someone beautiful in society's eyes? see notes on ethics session: size 0 vs size 14 models.
- largely used to express individual identity.
